SSbD bio-based solutions to replace hazardous conventional chemicals for textiles production

Successful proposals will address the EU Bioeconomy Strategy, the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability and the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles. Indirect contribution is expected towards the objectives of the Mission "Restore our Ocean and Waters by 2030" in particular to Objective 2: "Prevent and eliminate pollution of our oceans, Seas and waters".

Projects results are expected to contribute to the following expected outcomes:

• Availability of SSbD bio-based solutions for the textile industry, meeting technical and market performance requirements.
• Improvement in sustainability, circularity and safety of the textiles industry.
• Reduction of pollution (including micropollutants and emerging contaminants, as relevant) from the production, use and end-of-life phases of textile value chains, with potential ripple effects in downstream sectors.
• Improved social impacts along the textiles value-chain and broad socio-economic benefits.

The EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles announced actions along the textiles value chain to increase circularity and sustainability. The European consumption of textiles has the fourth highest impact on climate change and the environment, after the food sector, housing and mobility. Conventional textiles production is one of the most resource intensive and polluting industries. Many textiles' functionalities and properties can currently only be achieved through processing with chemistry that has been identified as hazardous or of potential concern. This includes, for instance, coatings such as PFAs, heavy-metal-rich dyes and fixing agents, solvents, and surfactants. Moreover, fossil-based polymers, e.g., PVC and PU, have widespread use in coated fabrics but they are under scrutiny for the potential adverse effects (due to their additives), and high health & safety impacts in their production phase, use, and end of life. Overall, adequate substitutes of hazardous substances need to be demonstrated and introduced into textile value chains, including considering any challenges in the case of potential remanufacturing and textiles-to-textiles recycling. There is a potential to demonstrate innovative bio-based chemicals and processes to substitute currently used hazardous chemicals.

Proposals under this topic should:

• Demonstrate SSbD bio-based alternatives to hazardous conventional chemicals used in the production of textiles. Bio-based solutions applicable to bio-based and/or fossil-based textiles production are both in scope^[1]
  • Chemicals in scope for replacement include both those that are currently only used in production processes and those that are included in the end-product(s).
  • SSbD bio-based solutions in scope are:
    • chemicals (organic and/or inorganic compounds) and/or
    • processing routes, removing the need for chemical-to-chemical substitution.
• Ensure compatibility of the innovative chemicals and/or processes with textile manufacturing equipment and practices.
• Test the impact of the alternative bio-based chemical(s) and/or process on the end-product(s), based on available standards. The action can target garments, technical textiles or other products (e.g., footwear, non-woven textiles) towards improving the production of bio-based and/or fossil-based textiles. More specifically, assess their technical performance (depending on end application), human health safety and environmental impact against relevant benchmarks, considering production, use and end of life (EoL). Specify all the different and applicable EoL scenarios considered (e.g., recycling, remanufacturing etc.).

In addition to the specific requirements applicable for the type of action, as described in section 2.2.3.1 of the CBE JU Annual Work Programme 2025^[2], proposals under this topic should:

• As part of the Multi-Actor Approach (MAA), ensure adequate involvement of all key actors in the value chains relevant for this topic, including textiles manufacturers, especially SMEs and brand owners, raw materials suppliers, process industries, regional/local officials and workers’ representatives related to HS&E.
• Include a task to apply the safe-and-sustainable-by-design (SSbD) framework, developed by the European Commission, including the health and safety of workers and end users. Under this context, projects are expected to also contribute with and develop recommendations that can advance further the application of the SSbD framework.^[3]
• Ensure complementarities with past and ongoing R&I projects addressing similar challenges, including projects funded under Horizon 2020/Horizon Europe (Cluster 6 and Cluster 4 as well as the upcoming partnership on Textiles: ‘Textiles for the Future’) and BBI JU/CBE JU projects^[4]

[1] Definition on textiles

[2] https://www.cbe.europa.eu/reference-documents

[3] More specifically, provide thresholds that can support the criteria definition and improvements for the assessment SSbD methodologies, including any specificities related with bio-based chemicals. Recommendations should also include identification of data gaps, especially safety, environmental, but also socio-economic factors, as well as priorities for data collection

[4] For example: GLAUKOS, CELLFIL, TexMaTer, SOLSTICE, BioSusTex. The list is not exhaustive.